Hiking the Greenstone and Caples Tracks – an Alternative to The Routeburn Track

Wanting an alternative to the Routeburn? The Greenstone and Caples tracks just might fit the bill.

Not a Great Walk, but a Fantastic Walk! The Greenstone and Caples tracks (combined) is one of the “Second Tier Tracks” on par with the 10 Great Walks of New Zealand.

In fact, you can join up with the Routeburn on either the Greenstone or Caples tracks to extend your Routeburn experience, which is a great alternative if any of your intended Routeburn stays are booked out.

This was the third hike in our trio of New Zealand hikes over the Christmas break in 2022/23, the others being The Rakiura Track and the Rees-Dart Track.

Hiking the Greenstone and Caples tracks is a great “Goldilocks” hike. Not too hard and not too easy, a perfect number of days to really get away, but not a whole week hike, gorgeous scenery, and perfect in bad weather as the elevation is not too high. Plus it has far cheaper huts than The Routeburn Track, complete with flushing toilets!

Quick Links – Main Points Covered in this Guide:

• Map of the Greenstone and Caples Tracks
• Hut Accomodation on the Track
• Track Notes
• Transport to the Greenstone and Caples Tracks from Glenorchy or Queenstown
• Gear List for the Greenstone and Caples Tracks

This article may contain affiliate links. If you make a purchase using one of these links, we may receive compensation at no extra cost to you. See our Disclosure Policy for more information.

The Greenstone and Caples Tracks – Overview

Map of the Greenstone and Caples Tracks

For an online Greenstone and Caples tracks map, I recommend FarOut Guides. Their guides are excellent, and I've also used them for the Heysen Trail, Larapinta Trail, and the Tahoe Rim Trail.

FarOut is a GPS enabled app which is easy to follow and full of helpful information. It uses crowdsourcing to add comments and updates on water sources and campsites.

While FarOut you pay per map for an indefinite time, GAIA is a online map app with a monthly subscription and also a great resource.

I totally recommend taking a compass and paper map (on any remote hike). You can purchase a Greenstone and Caples track topographic map from New Topo NZ or at any at any DOC Visitors Centre.

If you are unsure about using a compass, I recommend taking a navigational course. Just like first aid, navigation is a good skill to have. If you can't get to an in person navigation course, The Columbia River Orienteering Club has excellent tutorials on YouTube. They also have tutorials on using GPS systems such as GAIA and similar.

Elevation Profile

Know Before You Go

The Greenstone and Caples tracks are effectively two tracks that form a circuit from the two valleys with the same namesakes, linked by the McKellar Saddle.

This hike is a true circuit, and transport from Glenorchy or Queenstown is pretty straightforward, making this a perfect hike at a fraction of the Routeburn's cost, with no need for advance bookings.

Fees and registrations for the Greenstone and Caples Tracks

There are no fees or registration required for the Greenstone and Caples tracks. However, you will need to pay for your accommodation – be it hut or campsite accommodation. See Track Accommodation for more details.

Options and Direction

Options for this track include but are not limited to:

• walking the track clockwise or anti-clockwise (counter-clockwise)
• starting at Lake Howden on the Routeburn Track – an hour's walk from The Divide.
• starting out from Greenstone Car Park and continuing on the Routeburn.

Trailheads

Greenstone Carpark -44.92831770151925, 168.3460256719698
The Divide -44.82470034488417, 168.1170057680459

Supply and Resupply for the Greenstone and Caples Tracks

There are no resupply options on the Greenstone and Caples tracks. The nearest town is Glenorchy, which has a couple of general stores.

The first is a general store on the main road, which mainly caters for tourists (great bakery), and the other is the small general store attached and owned by the Glenorchy Hotel.

If you can, pick up supplies for your hike from nearby larger towns such as Queenstown. Small Planet Sports in Queenstown has a great selection of dehydrated foods and any hiking/camping gear you may have forgotten.

There is also a box of free half-used gas canisters by the door – help yourself and consolidate the “halfies” using a Flip-Fuel – one of the essentials I carry in my Full Gear List.

The Best Time to Hike the Greenstone and Caples Tracks

The Greenstone and Caples tracks are best hiked from Spring to Autumn – late October to mid-April in the Southern Hemisphere.

The Greenstone and Caples Route Description

The Greenstone and Caples tracks are well-marked, including unformed track, loose scree over the 3 landslides, and bridge crossings.

Water Sources on the Greenstone and Caples Tracks

Livestock is present on the grassy lower flats, so water taken on the farmland should be boiled or sterilised. Water is generally safe to drink in huts and the higher regions of the tracks, but hikers may wish to treat it for their own protection. I use a Katadyn Befree Filter System.

Safety on the Greenstone and Caples Tracks

Although the Greenstone and Caples tracks are lower in altitude than the neighbouring hikes, such as the Rees-Dart Track, it is still considered an alpine region.

Understand the symptoms of hypothermia and how to treat it. During the summer, the sandflies are fierce. Antihistamine medication in your First Aid Kit is a good idea, regardless of whether you suffer from allergies. It will calm the itching and bring any swelling down.

You can purchase antihistamine tablets at the general store at the Glenorchy Hotel. However, please consult your doctor before taking any over the counter drugs.

Dogs and Drones

Dogs are not allowed on the track. Drones are not permitted without permission from the landowners.

Trail Accommodation on the Greenstone and Caples Tracks

There are 3 DOC huts on these tracks – Mid Caples, McKellar Hut and Greenstone Hut. In addition, there are 2 huts managed by the NZ Deerstalkers' Association – Upper Caples Hut and Greenstone Hut. Book Deerstalkers huts here

The huts on The Greenstone and Caples Tracks are referred to as Serviced Huts, meaning they have mattresses, water supply, toilets, handwashing facilities and heating with fuel available.

These huts may also have a warden on site. Serviced huts can be booked directly on the website, by obtaining a Backcountry Pass or pay as you go using Backcountry Hut Tickets. For more information and to book, read our full guide to Backcountry Huts in New Zealand.

Camping is a little under half the price of hut bookings, and campers can use the hut facilities such as the kitchen, common area, and toilet facilities. This is a godsend during the summer when the sandflies can be brutal.

The Greenstone and Caples Distances between Huts

The Greenstone and Caples Track Notes

The Caples Valley

We stayed in Glenorchy a couple of nights after completing the Rees-Dart Track, and Info and Track picked us up en route from Queenstown. Once we got to the end of Greenstone Road, we could walk the track either clockwise or anti-clockwise (counter-clockwise). As you don't have to book the huts, you can make this decision at the last minute.

The Deerstalkers Upper Caples Hut

We first decided to walk the Caples Valley and followed the picturesque river upstream that runs down the emerald green valley with cows grazing and the odd flock of ducks. It really was a delightful start to the hike.

We made it to Mid Caples hut by lunchtime and sat on the verandah, soaking in the sun and mentally preparing for the next run. We had decided to stay at the Deerstalkers Upper Caples Hut to even out the daily kilometre count.

This was a last-minute decision, and we planned just to camp on the grounds of the hut and use their water supply. Upper Caples Hut had a large open expanse on all sides, so there was plenty of room. However, no sooner had we set up, the sandflies came out – IN DROVES!

Luckily, a couple turned up and let us in the hut so we could take refuge. The inside of a Deerstalkers Hut is slightly different. It reminded me a little of a clubhouse.

There was a stove, pots and pans, plates and cutlery, and a cupboard of non-perishables that I assumed regulars left for emergencies. Also, a gun cabinet – a reminder of what this hut was used for.

After dinner, we retreated to our tents and watched the swarms of tiny black biting insects covering the interior mesh of our tents. Mesmerising..

Day 2

Climbing the McKellar Saddle

The valley narrows past the Upper Caples hut, and although there is little elevation on this hike, we broke a sweat hiking up the steep section to McKellar Saddle.

The view on the other side was spectacular and reminiscent of the nearby Rees Valley. We dropped our packs at the junction to Lake Howden and walked the easy 1 hour (approx 3.5 km) to Lake Howden, the trail to The Routeburn.

It was a nice little hike, but getting to Lake Howden, we were surrounded by day trippers who had parked at The Divide car park, and the toilets stank, so we retreated back the way we had come.

Day 3

The Greenstone Track

The trail follows the Greenstone Track, crossing several large landslides to rock hop. Take care across these landslides, as they can be slippery in the wet. Once you pass the landslides (there are about 3), you reach a gorge.

A steel swing bridge crosses Steele Creek, not far from Greenstone Hut. It seemed a fairly long day, but not hard, and the hike through the beech forest is magical.

Day 4

The Greenstone Valley

Info and Track picks up at 10.15 from the Greenstone Road car park, so many hurried hikers leave Greenstone hut before sunrise on the final day.

The hike down the Greenstone Valley is seriously gorgeous, and the crystal clear turquoise Greenstone River is captivating. We were hot-footing it, so unfortunately, we didn't stop much at all. If you can take your time on this section, I totally recommend it.

Transport, Accommodation and Logistics

Greenstone and Caples Shuttle Service

There is no public transport to Glenorchy from Queenstown or from Glenorchy to Greenstone Carpark.

Info and Track shuttle service is the best option and runs shuttle buses daily. They also offer luggage storage and gear rental. Visit Info and Track for more information. The Info and Track office is on the main road in Queenstown.

Vehicle Access and Parking

You can park safely at Greenstone car park; however, there are streams you need to ford that can become flooded and may not be passable after rain. If you are hiring a car, check with the hire car company, as it is unlikely they will allow this crossing.

An alternative would be to park at the Kinloch Wilderness Retreat and catch a ride with a passing car, or the Info and Track guys will likely pick you up if you flag them down. It's an 11-km walk if all else fails.

Getting There and Away

The closest airport is Queenstown Airport. Queenstown is a stunning picturesque town with loads of cool bars and eateries. It's known as the adventure capital of New Zealand, and for good reason. Check out some of the neat things you can do here.

Queenstown has an international airport for short-haul flights. Make sure you nab a window seat – either side will give you stunning views both arriving and departing. Book flights here

Where to stay in Glenorchy

Save Your Pennies

We recommend something other than Mrs Woolley's campsite.
The Glenorchy Hotel has good basic rooms, plus the food is pretty good.

Very Good and Won't Break the Bank

The Kinlock Wilderness Retreat has dormitory rooms and a variety of singles and doubles. It's a lovely spot, however a little out of the way.

Splash Out

The Headwaters Eco Lodge is New Zealand's first net zero sustainable property with a seriously amazing restaurant.

Essential Gear List for the Greenstone and Caples Tracks

Mosquito Head Net – Sea to Summit Nano Mosquito/Fly Head Net
Insect Repellent – Bushman Insect Repellent

Take protection against the sandflies on this trail during summer. Also, consider taking antihistamines with you – however, please consult your medical practitioner or pharmacy before following this advice. Antihistamines will help with the swelling and itching should you react to the sandfly bites.

Cooker – Jetboil Stash Cooking Pot Camp Stove System

Unlike the huts on the Great Walks, Greenstone and Caples Tracks huts do not have any cookers, so you must bring your own. I use the Jetboil Stash because it's super lightweight, packs really small, and boils just under a litre of water in less than 2 minutes. Perfect for a cuppa on the trail.

Coffee Plunger – Jetboil Silicone Grande Coffee Press

Talking about a cuppa, my morning brew is super important. Just because I'm hiking in the wilderness does not mean I compromise my coffee. Not a chance. The Jetboil coffee press transforms your Jetboil saucepan into a French press, and voila! Damn fine coffee (disclaimer, for damn fine coffee, you will need to buy decent coffee as well).

Flip Fuel – Flip Fuel – Gas transfer device

While we're on the subject of cookers, remember to pack a Flip Fuel, especially if you're undertaking several multi-day hikes and need to consolidate half-filled gas canisters.

Power Banks – Nitecore NB10000 Lightweight Power Bank

You don't want to miss an opportunity to take a stunning photo on The Greenstone and Caples Track just because your phone went dead.

I also need to charge a few other devices, such as a watch and headlamp. Power banks come in many shapes and sizes, but I was introduced to Nitecore by the first ultralight hiker I'd met when hiking The Overland Track (thanks, Andrew!). Hopefully, you'll thank me as well. These are super lightweight, and their charge lasts much longer than any other power bank I've used.

Head Torch with Red LED – Led Lenser MH4 Rechargeable 400 Lumen Headlamp

If you are getting up to use the loo at night in the hut, having a red light option on your torch means you won't wake your sleeping neighbours. When sitting with other campers, the red light option is also necessary to not blind them with white light – it's just good manners. My rechargeable Led Lenser is also eco-friendly as it doesn't use disposable batteries.

Trowel – The Deuce #2 Ultralight Backpacking Trowel
Pee Cloth – Kiwi Ultralight Bush Cloth

Protect New Zealand's wilderness by practising LNT principles, especially when going in the bush.

FYI – A lightweight trowel is for digging the hole for your poop, not to shovel your poop into a hole. The cathole for your poop needs to be at least 60m from a water source and 6 inches deep – The Deuce Trowel cuts through roots and hard ground efficiently.

If this is the first time you have come across a pee cloth, let me introduce this little gem. It's used instead of toilet paper to wipe any drops away from a lady's genitalia. The cloth is made of quick-dry, moisture-wicking fabric and will dry out very quickly. In addition to this, the sun's UV rays will help sterilise the cloth.

Sleeping Bag – North Face Blue Kazoo Eco-Down sleeping bag

There's nothing quite like getting into my sleeping bag after a long day of hiking. My North Face sleeping bag is like sleeping in a cocoon of marshmallows – except not sticky – just light, fluffy, and – well, yum. It's also super light, meaning my pack is lighter. Lighter pack means less strain on my body. Win-win

EDIT: Since writing this article, I have now changed from a sleeping bag to a sleeping quilt!

Clothing Bag – Hyperlite Mountain Gear Stuff Sack Pillow

My waterproof clothing bag doubles as my pillow! I find the blow-up pillows too hard to sleep on, so I've never been a fan. The Hyperlite Mountain Stuff Sack has a waterproof outside, keeping your camp clothes nice and dry.

When you get to camp, you turn the pillow inside out and have a nice soft surface to lay your face against. Plus, it's made by Hyperlite Mountain Gear, known for being one of the original lightweight hiking gear manufacturers.

Final Thoughts on the Greenstone and Caples Tracks

It's a perfect medium-difficulty hike for walkers with some multi-hiking experience. The track is easy to get to and the gateway to the network of tracks continuing from the Routeburn for hikers who wish to extend their hike longer.

It was a lovely circuit that I would put my hand up to do again one day.

If you liked this you might also like:

• Navigating the Overland Track Solo
• Hiking Frenchmans Cap -Tasmania’s Iconic White Peak
• Hiking the Rees Dart Track – Mt Aspiring National Park
• The Rakiura Track – A Great Walk on Stewart Island
• Traverse Walls of Jerusalem to the Overland Track via Lees Paddock
• Hiking The Tahoe Rim Trail – A Guide for Overseas Visitors
• Conquering the Gold Coast Kokoda Challenge
• Plan Your Larapinta Trail Sections, Best Time of Year, Resupply, and Transfers
• Larapinta Trail Food Essentials and Nutrition Plan

Frequently Asked Questions